Carp Fishing How To Tie The D Rig

Carp Fishing How To Tie The D Rig


A lot of my fishing these days just like many
other anglers around the country see’s me casting out pop up presentations 9 out of
10 times I go fishing. However, when that spot dictates that I can get away with using
a wafter, a balanced bait or a bottom bait I will. I think it gives you a massive advantage
over other anglers if you’re fishing busy circuit waters or if you’re just fishing for
wary carp it’s just that little bit more inconspicuous. The rig I chose was the D-Rig. It’s nothing
revolutionary. It’s really simple, it’s easy to tie and it’s strong and reliable. The key
reasons I picked this rig over any other, it’s pretty much the closest I could get to
the properties of a pop-up rig in the fact that it doesn’t tangle on the cast. It re-sets
itself every time and it’s about resilient to nuisance species and crayfish as you can
get and that gives me masses of confidence to sit behind my rods until the carp comes
along and picks it up. There’s a few little things that I’ve done in my time of using
this rig, which are looked upon to be a bit of a taboo really and the biggest one of those
is the hook. Now, many many moons ago you couldn’t use an in-turned eye on any mono
or fluorocarbon hook section but times move on and you certainly can and I have been now
for quite a number of years to great success. I fish a lot of very weedy waters and naturally
when fishing weedy waters that sometimes you lose contact with the fish. You might feel
like you’ve got a tight line, but if that fish goes into a weed bed you lose direct
contact with that hook hold and that’s the key reason why I use a Mugga. It’s got a straight
point, which in my eyes I favour them over a beaked point, I think they prick the carp
a lot quicker, but the natural curved shank of that hook really, really gives super, super
strong hook holds even when that fish has gone into weed beds etc. and you need to get
the boat out and just that little crucial bit of time where you’ve got to get the boat
out and you’re not concentrating on keeping that tight line as much as you should be,
this ensures me that the hook holds are just golden. I really don’t lose any fish, I don’t
have any troubles with it. It really is a game changer as opposed to your normal sort
of chod pattern hook or your traditional J shaped hook. The second thing that I’ve actually
stepped up recently in the last year or so is the boom section. I used to use 20lb Invisi-Link,
which is a fluorocarbon hook link. I now use a 30lb fluorocarbon hook link and the reason
for that is not for the increase in strength it’s purely for the rigidity. It gives me
that extra little bit of stiffness when used in this length, which I’ll come to in a minute
and it just gives that optimum rigidity to kick a nice balanced bait away time and time
again, which if I’m casting it out from the bank is what I need is that lead and bait
separation to give me that confidence that I’m presented. Length of the rig then, I don’t
measure it but it’s about 7-8 inches. I found again with the 30lb material that I use here
it’s the optimum length for the rigidity I’m after. If I was to go any longer, even though
it’s 30lb in strength it would become more supple, so you could use the same rig in the
20lb fluorocarbon if that’s what you were after and likewise you can use one of our
stiffer materials if you wanted it to go stiffer, but for me this is the perfect blend between
being supple, yet kicks away that bait time and time again. So there it is, that’s my
version of the D-Rig and I’ll take you through how to tie it. First of all you’re going to
need to cut yourself off around 14-15 inches of 30lb Invisi-Link fluorocarbon. I attach
this to a size 4 Covert Dark Mugga hook via a 20 turn knotless knot. Before creating the
D I attach a Flexi Hook Ring Swivel and then I pass the tag end back through the hook and
blob off with a lighter. I create my boom sections around 7-8 inches and I attach it
via the swivel with a Perfection Loop Knot. This can be quite difficult to tie, so you
can use a Figure of 8 Loop Knot, whatever you’re more happy with. To finish the rig
off nicely I add a tiny amount of Critical Mass Rig Putty into the middle of the hook
link. This just stops any chances of it looping up off the lake bed and just allows it to
sit nice and flush. So there it is, that’s my version of a D-Rig. If you’re looking for
something new to try that’s reliable, offers great hook holds and can be used with a bottom
bait or critically balanced hook bait then this is the rig to try. It really won’t let
you down. Give it a go!

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