Daiwa Magseal:  What is it and how does it work? Daiwa Saltiga 4000h

Daiwa Magseal: What is it and how does it work? Daiwa Saltiga 4000h

What is going on guys, I thank you all for joining me and today We’re going to be going over daya’s max ceiling and how to deal with it Should you decide you want to work on your own real now not everybody has this stuff lying around But what I want to show you today is that it’s not as difficult as people make it seem and you can easily do it Yourself without disrupting the existing seal so what you’re going to need to do Remove the top e clip or C Clip that holds the bearing and a spool support once you do that You’ll pull the bearing and the seal out and you’ll have to push this pin out That will allow you to remove the rest of it exposing nothing, but the shaft this cosmetic plate here and the rotor retaining nut Remove that nut and there will be a bushing underneath it that generally seats above the pinion on the shaft And you can now remove the rotor. It’s very straightforward and simple and in order to save time I figured I’d leave that step out because this is what you want to see This blue cap here screws down And it keeps essentially the entire AR clutch pack fully sealed from the top down you can see the pinion the anti reverse clutch sleeve and the magnetic disc this portion of the magnetic disk is essentially a protective cover that keeps it centered and Without the rotor on this the air clutch sleeve it May not be centered in that gap or that magnetic gap so you do want to be careful at this point so what you’re going to do now is take this blue cap and Counterclockwise Slowly unscrew it you don’t want to go too fast because if there is any build-up, or bleed of the ferrofluid or any grease That’s in there. You don’t want it to lift out the Magnet unit prematurely so once we’ve got it fully unscrewed. We’re going to gently lift it up and Out it’s at this point You’re now staring at what makes up? Well the stuff called Maxiell that’s right you’re tearing out What’s called what makes up the mag seal unit now what you want to do if you don’t have this stuff lying around is with three fingers and go up and over the main shaft and with your fingernails lift up the one side of that magnetic washer and once you get it as So you can lift it out and before you go too far The AR clutch which is that piece that pulled out on the bottom? It’s not really being held on very tightly by magnetism, so it could fall Make sure that if you’re doing this on your own you Either go like this or you have a towel below, so doesn’t hit the bottom if it falls off and bounce So right now you just lift it out the entire assembly if you want to leave it as is and not lubricate the AR clutch Or do anything you can now remove the screws that hold that pinion bearing in place and service the reel as you normally would When you’re ready to put it back in to be perfectly honest with you, it’s actually easier to take This assembly apart So you’re going to remove they are the AR clutch bearing by itself and if you want to clean it out or whatever you want to do go right ahead, but Make sure before you start putting it back together you put that little eared washer back in place and makes reassembling much easier now you have a couple washers below the mag unit and It may be easier to take a pick tool and kind of lift it off like that This is the mag unit itself It incorporates the AR clutch sleeve and this magnetic washer And it’s really not going to go anywhere because it’s held in place by magnetism so I can shake this around And I’ll look real stupid if it falls out, but it’s not going anywhere You know the magic of magnetism so what I’m going to do is I’m going to place this here out of the way grab the body of the real and Start putting this back together because we’re going to pretend. We fully open this real, and we’re done and ready to put it back together With this eared washer already in air a clutch pack We’re going to go ahead and find the larger tooth right there You’ll see there’s an ear here a year here and this larger tooth here and that’s Going to go right there if you put the clutch pack in without putting that washer in you can see those little orange Kind of teeth that come out it’s key to that washer It makes it kind of tough to get it back in line So you want to put that back on the clutch pack before you put it back in the real? At this point you can now take the washer with the two ears place it on top and It should go in pretty easily I’d have to rotate the clutch pack a little bit Good, and that’s fully seated. Take your o-ring Place it back where it should go Since I’m doing this looking at the viewfinder it’s always trickier Good take this non-magnetic washer at least I think it’s non-magnetic Place that over the entire assembly you can see it’s kind of recessed in make sure it goes down all the way this example is it fully seated and Now if you’re gonna leave the AR clutch sleeve and magnetic washer pretty much Alone, and you don’t you don’t have ferrofluid that you want to replace You can now slide it down, and you can see it is keyed, so Sometimes it’s easier Just to kind of rotate it about so and it kind of dropped in a little bit now sometimes. You’re a little stubborn sometimes they’re not This time around and went in pretty easily And I’m pushing down on the AR clutch sleeve before I begin pushing on that magnet disk And if you watch before it goes down all the way might go in with a little pop Just like that You’re now ready to Put this top disc or top cap back in place And Clean up any ferrofluid now. I was playing around with it quite a bit And you can see I really didn’t disturb much of the ferrofluid if you want to clean it out all you have to do is use some denatured alcohol on a q-tip running around inside and I’ll rat it. I am going to Clean it out Grab a paper towel double it up since I don’t have gloves long as this stuff gets everywhere Get this o ring out of the way before I damage it You can see this stuff makes a mess Okay, I’m not even being gentle with this magnetic portion of the Maxiell unit So should you have decided to go ahead and clean it out This is all you’re gonna need to do let me get this back in place like so And get this top piece back in place like so we’re gonna go ahead and grab that oh ring Place it back on top And because we’re being thorough we’re gonna clean this washer once again Pop it over top. Hopefully everything’s in frame Grab our AR clutch sleeve slide it on down And since it’s there’s no ferrofluid already. I’m not being real considered as to the order Pop this back in I don’t if you showed up on the mic, but it popped it when it went back in again Now that we have that magnetic washer and air clutch sleeve back in place. We’re going to go ahead now and Put the AR clutch cap back in place You can grease the threads just to make sure it doesn’t gall or bind or get stuck make sure it’s tight and now take your mystical magical ferrofluid and a straw I like using a little coffee stirrer type straws and a little tip if you shave it down Kind of like that is just like you basically cut it on an angle. It’ll make it almost like a quill pen or hypodermic needle So grab your ferrofluid and Touch it in the gap Grab a little bit more And you can see it’s gonna work its way all the way around You don’t have to go nuts with this stuff This is the definition of a little dab’ll do you? And this will probably be more than enough that one big drop that’s about to go on in there And 99% of time it’s gonna automatically work its way around But it’s just fun to play with now Let’s take a look see if we could find a magnetic field in this you see that See how it’s going to kind of go to the one spot And work its way around If I were you I wouldn’t waste this stuff but Can I write with it speaking of quillpen t And no, it’s not So yeah that pretty much covers it you can now go ahead and put the rotor back in and reassemble as needed I’m going to clean this mess up and The last thing you want to be doing is taking a paper towel to this whole assembly after you just Put the ferrofluid in because you don’t want to take any out of the gap And you just basically been wasting ferrofluid so with that being said I hope you found this informative it’s very simple a Lot of people are pretty scared of it me personally. It’s no different than working with any other Type of seal on any type of reel and now that I was coming out with a few new reels I figured I’d bring this up because There may be some chatter on the interweb saying oh Maxwell’s problematic Maxiell sucks bubble blots impossible I would never buy a reel that I can’t service myself. Etc. Etc. Etc so Yeah, it’s not that difficult to deal with and this is one of the more complex Mac sealed reels outside of their long cast designs Available in the JDM market or Europe so I appreciate the time you guys spend here without you I wouldn’t be here Make sure if you found this informative definitely leave a like down below and until next time guys tight lines And I will see you soon

32 thoughts on “Daiwa Magseal: What is it and how does it work? Daiwa Saltiga 4000h

  1. What Ferro fluid do you recommend from Ferro tech. my problem is all the stuff I see on eBay is only made to last a month or a couple because they are mainly made for science projects. And when I looked at Ferro tech's website there prices seemed like it would just be cheaper to send to daiwa.

  2. is the assembly the same for a saltiga? i've always considered one for popping..but there are no daiwa dealers in my country and servicing has been a concern. also what brand of fluid is that? does it last long? thanks in advance…great videos. subbd!!

  3. Great video, i just subscribed!!!
    I was looking for the ferrofluid stuff you used and i can't find it on Ferrotec website. How can i find it?

  4. Is it therefore possible to convert a standard non magsealed reel into a "magsealed" one just by putting ferrofluid in all the essential parts(ball bearings etc.)?

  5. Will magoil stop sand or fine sand suspended in water from entering the reel? I'd hate to spend a grand + on a Saltiga, Expedition, or Dog Fight only to ruin it wet suiting. Does self service void the manufacturer's warranty?

  6. How did you get the spool support pin out? I have one on my steez 17 but for the life of me can not figure it out…

  7. So what happens if you don't care about the seal and are just in freshwater and use regular reel oil? What will happen?
    Also is this the stuff to use if you want to maintain the seal with ferrofluid?

  8. Nice system to keep water from creeping into the bearing and into the body. However, what keeps water from creeping past the main reciprocating shaft? That shaft is always pumping up & down and fully exposed to the elements, how does water keep from seeping past it?

  9. What is a good rod for a daiwa bg magsealed reel 2500? I just bought one for 150.00 from Croatia. Since they don't sell it in America. Idky

  10. Looks easy enough. I have 2 bg 2500 magseal reels coming in. its not like the system is closed/sealed… daiwa has direct instruction to send it to them to service. i should start charging ppl to service their reels at half the cost of manufacturers… i'd make a killing.

  11. @ Tackle Advisors – Just curious and a thought. Does the Magseal fluid move from the heat of the spool drag? Or does heat don’t effect the mag fluid?

  12. Hey there, always find the vidoes informative. How often do you need to add the magseal fluid to the main seal you were showing us? Can you add fluid or do you recommend a complete breakdown and starting fresh? All my fishing is freshwater smallmouth fishing, so most of my water containment comes from rainwater. Is there a brand of oil you recommend? Thanks for your time and look forward to future videos.

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