Electronic Doom Figure Build

Electronic Doom Figure Build

Hey, Internet! If you haven’t heard, this
week marks the release of Doom on the Nintendo Switch. This is the newest
installment in the franchise that originally came out last summer. It’s a
fantastic game, and needless to say I am excited to be able to play it on the
Switch. If I’m not mistaken this is the first Doom on a mainline Nintendo
console since Doom64 about 20 years ago. Sorry! 1997 was 20 years ago. Anyway, part of the game’s charm is that there are a ton of
hidden secrets and collectibles scattered all over the place. In
particular, one of the things you can find are these little Doomguy figurines
that kind of resemble Funko pop figures. There’s a couple of them tucked away
into various nooks and crannies on each level, and — when you find them — you get some
upgrade points, and it also plays this awesome retro clip of the original Doom
theme. Nneedless to say, when I started playing, I was determined to make a
real-life version for myself. I’ve been working on it for a bit, and I’m finally
pretty pleased with the design, so I figured what better way to celebrate the
release on the Switch than to unveil it and show you how to make your own
electronic Doom figure. Step one was finding a model of the
figure to 3D print… unless your carving or sculpting skills happen to be off the
charts, but mine aren’t. So, I figured there had to be one out there, and of
course the internet works very quickly. It wasn’t long before someone had
uploaded a version to Thingiverse Credit to this guy! Thank you! So
prototype number one it was just a straight 3D print. And, as fantastic as it
felt to be able to just grab this out of the 3D printer, I knew I couldn’t stop
here because I really wanted it to play the music when you pick it up. But
otherwise, for a first prototype, I was pleased with how this turned out. I
smoothed it with some XTC-3D and spray-painted it silver. Although, obviously I
didn’t even bother to paint any details on the poor guy because I knew I’d be
moving on. So, step two was figuring out the audio. Fortunately, making
something play music is pretty easy and pretty cheap. My first thought was to
scavenge the electronics out of an old musical greeting card, but then I found
this for six bucks on Amazon which was hard to beat. This is the ISD1820. It’s a
little 40 by 40 mm PCB with a microphone and speaker. It runs on
3 – 5 V. Straight out of the box, you will need to solder some wires
on to the speaker. Once the speaker is connected, the next step is the power. For the second prototype all I did was cut an old USB cable and wire it up. The last thing to do is record the music,
and of course the brute-force method is to just hold the microphone up to your
speaker and play the clip. Fortunately, in our case the retro style of the clip
sort of masks the poor quality of the recording. We can get a little bit fancier later, though.
With that, on to prototype number two. After I found the 1820 I was really
pretty excited, and I just hastily incorporated it into the model in the
fastest way that I could, which was to cut his head open, drop it straight in,
and seal it back up. You can still see the seam across the visor, which I
obviously don’t like, power is coming in through the old USB cable, which I don’t
like that much either. To improve sound conduction a little, I just drilled
some holes in the back of his head which is also pretty tacky. The push-button on
the PCB is activated with this little 3d printed extender that I put in there.
Definitely not the most glamorous, but it does work. And that made me really happy. Once I had it working, I knew I had to
polish this design and do it some justice. So, for the final implementation I
decided I was gonna do it right. There were a few things I knew I had to
do: (1) run it off battery power, (2) make the internals accessible so that you could
change the battery, (3) add mounting locations for all the electronics, (4)
relocate the push-button to the outside, and of course (5) give it a sweet paint job.
So, let’s take a look at making some updates to the model. Here’s our original model. Pretty cool I think it’s actually pulled straight out of the game files
which is nice for authenticity but in the time that I spent on the first and
second prototypes a new and improved model I’d started floating around with
some added detail so I went with that as my new starting point in addition to
more detail on the armor this one adds ball joints to the arms at hands which
is excellent everything was plated together into one STL so the first thing
I did was separate those in the mesh mixer the Select tool makes this really
easy just lasso around individual pieces to leave what you need to save it and
then repeat as necessary for each piece that you want to split apart before doing anything else I used mesh
mixers make solid function to ensure that everything in the model was
manifold this does affect the entire mesh and can really reduce your detail
if you’re not careful but I used sharp edge preserve with a solid accuracy and
mesh density of 300 and those settings worked pretty well
next up I decided I was going to split the body into two halves and fasten it
with screws from the back that way I could still get inside to change the
battery or modify anything else down the road I did that in mesh mixer as well
using the plain cut feature and I lined the cut up with the center of the ball
joints on the shoulders after that I ran the make solid function again for good
measure for the back of course you can just rotate the plane 180 degrees and
repeat after that it was time to figure out how to make the more specific
changes that I wanted one of the things that had plagued me with the earlier
prototypes was that I could only find the model as an STL and I didn’t have a
great way to make any kind of detailed modifications without a solid file mesh
mixer had got me pretty far but I really wanted to add some precise features
fortunately I’ve since found out that open s CAD is a fantastic way to modify
mesh files and it really enabled me to do the rest of everything I wanted to do
on this design if you haven’t used open s CAD it’s a programming based modeler
which may take some getting used to but it’s extremely powerful for customizable
models and parametric geometry which is exactly what I wanted starting with the
front half I imported the SEL from mesh mixer added a cutout for the 1820
circuit board and a cutout below that for the battery with its holster and
five screw holes to join the two halves together on the backside we have the
corresponding five screw holes the mounting space for the push button and
another mounting space for the speaker for sound conduction I created a fancier
hole pattern with three concentric rings 31 holes all together much nicer than
just drilling haphazardly and it sounds better too
here’s the arms as I said nothing changed there so here’s some arms next
up it was time to print the two halves of the body you can print either upright
or laying down depending on your preference if you print laying down you
will need supports or really good bridging over the cap
ease up right I was able to print it without supports although this did cause
some minor defects especially near the chin and under the pouches on the belts
but nothing that couldn’t be buffed out and finishing later I did notice that a
higher infill percentage helped stabilize some of the areas that were
sagging without supports particularly around the chin so you can get away with
10 or 20 percent infill but I recommend 20% for that reason and also to watch
the print as it approaches the chin if you’re not going to use supports if you
don’t mind cleaning up a little bit afterwards printing without supports is
gonna save you about an hour and a half on each side when printing up right I
used a 30 line brim to make sure it wouldn’t get knocked over as it got
taller and for detail I printed at 0.2 millimeter layer height which took about
nine and a half hours at 20 percent infill for the front half on the back I
used the same point two millimeter layers and same 20 percent infill and
for this side the print was eight hours and ten minutes here the major support
locations are again under the pouches and a little bit between the legs one
other thing to note is that this model somehow got inverted at some point along
the way and I didn’t notice until I’d already printed it but go ahead and flip
everything in the x-axis if you want 100% accuracy
lastly we’ve got the arms which I also printed at point two millimeters and 20
percent fill on this I did use supports for those ball joints and the print ran
just over two and a half hours and now we’re ready to go so let’s print prototype number three for the ball
joints on the shoulders you can put the arms in place before you join the two
halves together and then for the ball joints on the hands I used a heat gun to
soften the plastic a little bit to make joining those two parts easier it
doesn’t take much heat at all and if you have trouble you can always just glue
them in place all right now I need to get this push button out of here so that
I can relocate it to the back of the figure with the push buttons you have
two choices play II will play the entire recording with a single press and play L
will only play for as long as you hold the button down so I’m gonna go ahead
and move play E and I really don’t want to try and desoldering the board but
fortunately I have an extra push button so what I’m gonna do is just clip this
one out and probably wind up destroying it in the process and then replace it
with the new one if you don’t have a spare you probably want to be careful
removing this from the PCB so that you can continue to use it and then for
battery power in lieu of the USB cable I’m using a cr2032 coin cell with a
basic holster so earlier I mentioned getting a little fancier with the sound
recording and what I was alluding to was bypassing the microphone all together
because it’s by far the weakest link in the sound quality so as you can see I’ve
removed it from the board altogether and what I did was replace it with a two pin
header then I dug up an old 3.5 millimeter cable and added some pins to
that and now we have a method to pipe the audio directly in through a
headphone jack and of course you can always take the
microphone add some pins to that and swap it back in whenever you want here’s
our final integration you may need to get a bit creative with routing some of
the wires for the push-button in the speaker I plan to use hot glue to set
them in place you can use superglue if you want something more permanent
as always the worst part of finishing any 3d printed project is the sanding so
although I used XTC 3d on the first prototype I wasn’t quite happy with how
much detail it obscured so I decided to not use it for the subsequent designs
especially with how much detail was on this updated model I really wanted that
to shine through so instead I opted to first of all print with 0.2 millimeter
layer height so that it would be a little smoother straight out of the
printer and second of all sand it once the same thing was done and I primed and lastly we come to the painting there
are 26 different versions of this guy in the game so you have plenty to choose
from if you want to match one of those color schemes I decided to go with the
classic doom colors and we are done I am more than pleased with the finished
design this is exactly what I wanted I got a little carried away too and I made
the astronaut and the cosmonaut I had a lot of fun doing this I hope you had as
much fun watching it and I hope it inspires some of you to make your own
and to improve on the design until then have fun battling demons and saving Mars I decided to turn prototype number two
into the solid gold version

21 thoughts on “Electronic Doom Figure Build

  1. Hell yeah dude it looks cool! But for Nintendo Switch Instead of Demons we will get Goombas and little critters. And instead of Doom Slayer(AKA doomguy 2016) we will get Mario and the violence will be replaced by cartoonish violence.

  2. Please remove the model from thingiverse since this is a stolen model that I did not allow for downloads on sketchfab. My model to be exact. I did not give permission for this to be downloadable since I had put a lot of hard work into this and then someone steals it and uploads it onto thingiverse. You are not responsible for it being on thingiverse in the first place but your responsible for removing it now.

  3. I dont wanna sound like an a -hole but I think they should be a little bigger and they need a better paint job.
    Needless to say its great that you share your 3D model and experience making them!

  4. You rock man, thank you so much! I was guessing how to do something like this and you give me the answer. Thank you!

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